Parc des Buttes Chaumont

ENTRANCE TO THE BUTTES CHAUMONT PARC

The Parc des Buttes-Chaumont occupies 61 acres of hilly land in the 19th arrondissement of Paris. Although originally a lime quarry and execution ground, in 1863 construction was begun to change this barren area into a park – it was to be the crowning touch in Napoleon III's plan for green spaces throughout Paris. The park was developed by Baron Haussmann and the engineer, Jean-Charles Alphand, and after four years of construction, it was opened as part of the festivities of the Universal Exhibition of 1867.

STONE STEPS AMONG THE TREES

Truly an area off the beaten path, it’s hard to believe it’s only a few miles northeast of Montmartre. With its many varieties of trees, ancient stone walkways, and cliffs and waterfalls, it’s truly an oasis in this busy international city.

VIEW OF THE PARK FROM LUNCH SPOT

Since no visit to a park is complete without a book and a picnic lunch, I brought along a small blanket, sandwich, apple, and Hemmingway. (I think he would have approved.) From my perch on a hilltop, I looked down on beautiful leafy green trees and quiet pathways. It was a perfect afternoon – warm weather, blue skies, birds twittering in the trees , and plenty of sunshine for a refreshing change. This is truly a Parisian park and one will find few tourists – or English speakers – in this quiet place.

CHILDREN PLAYING IN A STREAM

As I found my way back out of the park after lunch, I came across this enchanting scene of small children playing in a stream. Squealing, laughing, and splashing, they remind us that children enjoy the same simple pleasures wherever we go.

WINDOWSILL ALONG RUE TURENNE

Returned home to drop off picnic paraphernalia, and by then it was time to find a good spot for tea. On the way I came across this delightful windowsill full of flowers high up in an apartment house along rue Turenne.

PLACE DES VOSGES ON A SUMMERY DAY

I decided to return to Place des Vosges again since I harbored a hidden agenda to sneak up on this square to see what it looked like in the sunlight. But just as I arrived a large cloud arrived overhead and blocked out all the sun. At least it didn’t rain, and truly with 80 degree weather the cloud was rather welcome for a change. What I found out, however, was that there are definite drawbacks to visiting the Place des Vosges in the sunshine. These “drawbacks” are known as people – literally hundreds of them. I had never seen more than 10 people in this small park during my two previous visits. Now the lawn was almost covered with them — people sun tanning in bathing suits, people reading, picnicking, and talking, children playing. The archways around the square were clogged with tourists eating ice cream, and I could barely find a seat to have tea. Success at last at a small cafe called Nectarine, where I consumed a delightful tarte de framboise [raspberry tart] and pot of tea.
Salut